How To Change Your Cars Brake Pads
- STEP ONE
Comfort initial. Park the automotive in an exceedingly cool, shady spot.
- STEP TWO
Currently safety. Block the rear wheels that the automotive will not roll once you jack it up. place the automotive in park and set the hand brake firmly.
- STEP THREE
Lay out your tools. Grab a hand tool and head to the front wheels. The hand tool is that long metal rod with a socket on the tip of it that typically comes with the vehicle. you'll conjointly purchase a extremely cool one (called a spinner) that appears sort of a metal cross -- in truth, it's a metal cross -- with different-sized sockets on every finish.
What we would like to try and do here, before jacking the automotive up off the bottom, is loosen the lug kookie on the wheels barely enough to interrupt them free. thus go try this. Work them off barely enough till they loosen their resistance and become simple to show with the hand tool. currently slip the jack underneath the automotive.
There square measure many places to securely elevate the automotive. If you've got a floorjack, you'll roll it all the method underneath to the middle of the engine and jack it up exploitation the K-member that holds the engine. watch out to not use the oil pan, as you may harm it. If you've got a smaller, single floor jack, you will have to try and do one aspect at a time. search for flat spots on the frame, like a shot to the rear of the front wheels, or on the tip of every shaft.
Okay, raise the front shaft off the bottom. place your jack stands underneath every finish of the shaft, and lower the automotive onto the stands. A jack stand (see illustration) may be a metal stand with variable height changes. you ought to own 2.
- STEP FOUR
Take away the lug kookie and therefore the wheel (the tire are attached). Best to figure on one wheel at a time, effort the opposite aspect intact as some extent of reference. As a security precaution, roll the wheel/tire assembly underneath the front-center of the automotive, between the jack stands, and plop it down at a lower place the engine's K-member. within the event of a faulty jack stand, this can break the vehicle's fall and will presumably save your life.
- STEP FIVE
Okay, take a breather. currently let's cross-check what we've got before US.
A hydraulic brakes assembly consists of the subsequent elements: a caliper, 2 restraint, a rotor, and a few bolts and clips to carry it alltogether. it is a terribly straightforward style. Here's however it works.
The caliper comes in 2 flavors -- floating or mounted. every works on an identical principle. The caliper's job is to squeeze the restraint toward a centrally set metal plate -- the rotor -- manufacturing friction, that successively slows the automotive. consider a hand slowly clamping down on a spinning record (or a CD, for you youngin's who've ne'er detected the term "record" before).
The restraint hover on either aspect of the metal plate. They attach to the within of the caliper, betting on your car's style, with clips or bolts. they're composed of heat-resistant material that rubs against the rotor. once the brakes square measure applied, the pads move toward each other, engrossing the rotor between them and fastness the wheels.
The rotor is that shiny metal disc staring you within the face without delay. you'll nearly see your reflection, right? Get your eyes level with it. If you cannot see your face, or a minimum of its general define, it's going to mean that the disc desires union or replacement. Below, we'll show you ways to visualize this disc for grading or marring, and what to try and do that.
- STEP SIX
Back to figure. take away the bolts holding the caliper in situ. Gently slide it out and far from the rotor. examine the within of the caliper. See the pads? they'll be control in situ by a bolt or a series of clips, typically each. take away the bolts or clips holding the pads in situ (remember, you left the opposite aspect intact to use as a reference) and work them free. Examine the pads. Is there any "meat" left on them, or square measure they worn all the way down to the screws? If they are utterly worn, you should've been hearing a bimetallic scrape for a minute when you applied the brakes.
Lay the pads aside and examine the rotor. are you able to see yourself in it? If the pads were worn into the metal, your rotor are scored; you will have bother seeing yourself. Run your fingernails on the surface of the rotor -- careful, though; if it has been but twenty minutes since you last drove the vehicle, they may still be hot -- initial the aspect facing you, then the aspect facing away. Is it scored? Deeply? This next purpose is incredibly vital. If the rotor has any grooves in the least in it, take away it quickly. currently you've got a choice to form.
If you've got a scored rotor, you want to decide whether or not to own it "turned" or to exchange it. If you are short on cash, take it to a neighborhood mechanic and raise him to "turn" it for you. What they are doing is place it on a special metal-cutting shaper and shave off many thousandths of an in. of metal till the disc is shiny once more. Remember, though, one among the important blessings of disc brakes over drum is their heat-handling capability. By removing metal, you scale back the system's thermal transfer capability. we have a tendency to advocate turning the discs only you're short on greenbacks. the higher method is to require the disc to the automotive vehicle elements store, match it up with a replacement, and purchase a brand new one. Last time we have a tendency to did this, it solely price US twenty greenbacks for a brand new rotor, an inexpensive investment in safety. you've got to travel there anyway to shop for the new restraint, also as a number of alternative things, thus why not create it one trip. In fact, here's your searching list:
* new rotor, or rotors, if needed
* new restraint (bring the previous ones, to match them)
* brake pad grease (comes in very little packets; they are low-cost, thus purchase two)
- STEP SEVEN
Head home and have a fruit drink.
- STEP EIGHT
Before you go from now on, you want to move the piston back to its "full open" position. The piston? you raise. Ah, we have a tendency to did not tell you that one, did we? bear in mind the hand-and-record analogy. because the fingers down (equivalent to the restraint wearing) the space between the restraint shortens. currently that we've got fresh pads, we have a tendency to should come back the system -- the hand -- to its original "open" position, to accommodate the new pads. There square measure many ways in which to try and do this.
First, realize the piston. it's set on the rear (closest to the engine) portion of the caliper. it's always concerning 3 to four inches across, and resembles alittle metal elevation with a flat prime. See it? betting on its condition and age, there square measure many belongings you will do to maneuver it back (toward the middle of the car). If it's new, attempt pushing it in with the heel of your hand. does not work? Okay, then attempt a channel lock or a holding device grip. Still will not budge? Then here's a suggestion. A neighbor of ours turned US on to the present once, and it works nice. Get an outsized clamp, place a skinny piece of wood or cardboard over the face of the piston to guard the surface from marring, and work it back that method. As you switch the handle on the clamp, it'll increase pressure on the piston, till it becomes flush with the encircling metal. Then loosen and take away the clamp.
- STEP NINE
Install the new rotor, if necessary. take away the previous restraint from the caliper (usually control in situ by many clips), but, before golf shot on the new ones, you want to do one thing. bear in mind the insufficient packets of grease you bought? These square measure wont to lubricate the restraint. Careful currently -- not on the front of the pad, that comes in reality with the rotor, however on the rear. The pads attach to the caliper via a plate-and-clip arrangement. The lubricator goes between the plate and therefore the back of the brake pad. Got it?
Don't overlook this. If you do not have sex, you will get a ugly screeching sound when you apply the brakes, sort of a archosaurian reptile in heat (and you recognize however sexy those velociraptors wont to get). when you apply the grease, attach the pad to the plate and slide the full issue into place.
- STEP TEN
Basically, at this time, simply put together the system in reverse order of the method you took it apart. currently do the opposite aspect. Take the automotive for a check spin. Sometimes, with new brakes, you'll get some weird scraping and scratching sounds; these can sometimes flee in an exceedingly few days. Clean up, and you are done.
Don't underestimate the importance of a brake reline and check that to use quality automotive vehicle elements and restraint. As we have a tendency to aforesaid at the point, fully nothing is a lot of vital than your car's ability to prevent itself. Knowing a lot of concerning your car's braking system -- stepping into there and really seeing what is going on on -- empowers and informs you in an exceedingly method that planning to the corner mechanic does not.
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